Sunday, April 07, 2002

Some New Photos For You

But this time, of my HO scale slot car repaints. Cast your eyes at http://www.owencooper.com/slots/HOrepaints.html

This might be interest to autocombat gamers as it shows off the decoupage technique I have mentioned before. The logos and race numbers on those cars (apart from the ones that are obviously waterslide transfers) were cut from magazines. The relevant 'bit' on the bodywork was painted in a very thin and tacky layer of PVA glue (aka White Glue, School Glue, Wood Glue, Elmer's Glue etc. etc.), the magazine cutting pushed in and then another thin coat of PVA was used to seal it. Two or three good coats of household varnish seal everything nicely and provide some protection from the usual shunts found in slotcar racing.

Painting the vac-formed lexan bodied car was, how shall I put it, interesting...

Since you paint on the inside of the clear shell, you paint backwards. First on went some gunmetal paint for the filler caps, windscreen and front grille. Then the waterslide transfers were applied. The dark body colours go on next, then the lighter ones. You need to put the dark colours on first, because then the lighter ones can overspill (underneath) without affecting the colour, whereas painting some black behind yellow (for example) would spoil those sections of yellow. Once that's all done, you paint a white undercoat to 'back' all the main colours. Confused? That's just a simple car paintjob I did!

Despite the fact that there is little margin for error (you can't slap paint over mispainted detail and do it again) the finished effect is wonderful, since you have no brush marks in the finish - you are looking at the smooth underside of the paint strata through a clear glossy plastic. The fact that the inside of the car is a mess of lumpy brush marks doesn't matter. Tricky to do, as you have to plan out every application in paint in advance, but nice results.